A Mobile or Base Transceiver for Your Go-Kit
Training tip for 1-18-06
The
first training tip, in early December, involved emergency power for your
handheld, and we stressed the importance of having a power pack that accepts AA
Alkaline cells plus a good supply of at least 3 dozen fresh AA alkaline cells
on hand. Last time we discussed handheld accessories: having a better antenna
than the stock rubber duck that came with the HT, having adapters to convert
from your HT’s type of connector to PL-259, BNC or SMA, having a headset or
earphones to hear better, to keep from contributing to the pandemonium present
in the environment, to maintain privacy, and to preserve your batteries, and
having a boom mike as a great convenience. We hope you made the effort to equip
yourself with all of these things, or at the very least the batteries. When a
disaster hits us, and it will sooner or later, you’ll be glad you made the
effort.
Tonight’s training tip is about having a mobile or base rig as part of your go-kit. While it may be prohibitively expensive for you to justify having a spare mobile or base rig just sitting in the go-kit gathering dust waiting for an emergency, your plans for quick deployment to help out in an emergency situation should, if possible, include a mobile or base 2M rig if you own one, or better yet, a dual band or multi-band rig. Why? Your low-power HT may be unable to hit the repeater, or the repeater may be down for the duration of the emergency and unusable. The net may be on simplex frequencies and relaying from point to point. Having a low-power HT may not do the job, so you’ll need something as a back up with more power. A 2M mobile rig usually puts out 10-50 watts or more and with a decent antenna that is plenty to be heard well.
Unlike
a handheld, a mobile or base station’s power requirements are considerable – AA
cells won’t exactly do. The only way you can use a higher power device is if
you have a higher power source. That means a big lead-acid battery or a 12V
power supply using AC mains, if they’re available, or a generator. Let’s
discuss each one.
A
big lead-acid battery can be either the one in your car or a stand-alone
deep-cycle marine battery. The car battery is a good choice, as it can be
charged by running the engine from time to time. The rig can be permanently
mounted in your car as a mobile radio and you can use a good quality
quarter-wave or 5/8 wave antenna, either magnetically mounted, mounted on the
trunk lip, or permanently mounted using a hole drilled in the vehicle. If you
need to be operating mobile, this is the best way to go. If your assignment is
to man a shelter or act as liaison at a fixed location, having a rig mounted in
your car may not be convenient.
For
portable operation like that, you can use a luggable lead-acid battery, but if
you do that, get a deep-cycle marine battery. A car battery is made for
cranking the engine to start it – lots of amps for a short time - and if you
discharge it completely with long-term radio use, it won’t survive too many
discharge cycles. A deep-cycle marine battery is designed to be discharged and
recharged over and over. It will keep you on the air for a day or two, perhaps
longer with conservative usage of the rig on medium or low power. It’s a heavy
thing to carry, so be prepared to get help if you’re not in good physical
shape. A charger is a good thing to have as part of your go-kit, too, so you
can charge it from 120 volts AC, if you have access to it.
There’s
a possible problem with running your brand new rig off a 12 volt battery,
though. A lot of radios today have microprocessors that are designed to work at
a nominal 13.8 volts, the charging voltage on your car battery, but they are
not happy with any power source much less than 12 volts. A lead-acid battery is
fully charged at 12.5 or 12.6 volts, and can go down to half charge at 10.5 or
11 volts, which is a safe level of discharge for the battery, but the problem
is that some radios won’t work at that low a voltage. The way around this problem
is with an inverter and power supply. The battery supplies power to the
inverter as low as 10.5 to 11 volts, and the inverter supplies 120 volts AC to
the power supply, which supplies 13.8 volts to the rig. The rig stays happy and
operates longer this way than by working directly off the battery, even though
the process is inherently less efficient. There is also the danger that the
inverter may cause RF interference, but better quality inverters won’t do that.
If
the AC mains are working at your emergency operation location, running a base
rig off a 12V power supply is a good idea. Conserve the battery. Use a
conventional or switching power supply. The new switching power supplies are
lightweight and easily included in your go-kit.
If
you have a gasoline-powered generator, use it with a power supply to keep the
rig on. The main constraint may be source of fuel. Gasoline cannot be stored
too many months without getting gummy, and you wouldn’t want to store more than
5 or 10 gallons anyway for safety reasons. The problem is that in an emergency,
when there is no power, service stations cannot pump gas, so you can’t get any
more. And modern cars make siphoning gas difficult or impossible. Propane and
natural gas are alternative fuels that are gaining in popularity for just that
reason. Home installations using these fuels are becoming more common, although
they’re still pricey. But with automatic switchover when the power fails, you
can live comfortably in your home as long as the fuel holds out. They’re not portable,
though, and if you need to take a generator to a field site, a gasoline type is
the way to go.
So
much for emergency power sources. Now let’s turn our attention to antennas.
Antenna
requirements for a mobile or base 2M rig are different from an HT also. That
inefficient rubber duck won’t do at all. You need an antenna that will handle
25-75 watts, or whatever your rig puts out. Your best bet is either a simple
j-pole like we discussed in the last training tip, or a mag mount quarter-wave
whip antenna. For the mag mount to work well, it needs a good ground plane. In
an emergency you can’t always count on having a large sheet metal object like a
car or file cabinet handy, so it’s a good idea to carry your own. Have an old
steel cookie sheet or pizza pan on which to mount the magnet mount. That can be
put just about anywhere.
And
what about the rig itself?
Simple
2M FM single band mobile or base radios are easy to come by and even brand new
ones are very affordable these days. A good one will set you back 160-170
dollars or so and have all the memory capability you can use. I know this goes
against the philosophy of some of you, but get out the manual and read through
it – some features may not be intuitively obvious. In fact you may not even be
aware they exist without reading the manual to find out! It’s a good idea to
keep the manual or a photocopy of it in your go-kit. If you haven’t used the
rig in a while, an emergency situation is no place to waste time trying to
figure out how to access a repeater with a P/L tone. Another good reference
book to have is the ARRL repeater directory, which is updated annually. It
lists all the repeaters in your area, and you can program the frequencies into
the memories of the rig. Modern rigs have alphanumeric labels that you can
program for each memory channel. Learn how to do this. It really makes it easy
to scan through the memory channels and see at a glance where the repeater is.
It’s faster to read “Lancaster” than to see 147.03 and figure it out.
Dual
band radios, if you can afford one, give you 2 meters and 70 centimeters in one
box. Seventy centimeters, more commonly known as 440 MHz, or UHF (ultra-high
frequency) is a lot like 2M in operation. There is some activity in Licking
County on that band, and there are four repeaters listed in the repeater
directory. In a serious emergency, they would no doubt be used, so if you have
access to this band, use it to become familiar with it. If you are in the
market for a new rig, take a look at a dual bander. They are more affordable
than ever and come packed with lots of useful features.
Multi-band,
multi-mode rigs, like the Icom IC-706 or Yaesu FT-857, for example, incorporate
the HF bands, VHF bands (6 and 2 meters) and UHF band (70 centimeters) all in one
compact box. There isn’t much real estate on the front panel, so most of the
radio’s functions are accessed by means of menus and submenus with function
keys. This takes some getting used to, and is not something you want to get
familiar with during a disaster, so if you have a radio like this, or are
contemplating getting one, be sure to practice a lot with it so you are very
familiar with its operation and are comfortable using it. Recognize that the
one disadvantage of a multi-band rig is that only one band can be used at a
time. If you are in a situation where both HF and VHF/UHF capabilities are
needed simultaneously, presumably with two or more operators, you would be
better off to have separate rigs for HF and for VHF/UHF.
HF
only radios can also have their use in an emergency, too, mainly to pass
traffic into and out of traffic nets, such as the Ohio ARES net on 75 meters or
the hurricane watch net on 20 meters. These radios, and the multi-mode,
multi-band radios just described will need suitable antennas for the bands you
plan to operate. At the very least, antennas for 75, 40, and 20 meters will be
good to have. Dipoles are balanced antennas and don’t require a good ground,
something that might be inconvenient to establish in a temporary emergency
set-up. One good antenna is to mount mobile vertical antennas base-to-base to
make a horizontal dipole. This antenna setup can be mounted on a mast 10 or 15
feet high and will do a creditable job getting a signal out. And speaking of
signals, most of the time for regional HF nets, you don’t want an antenna with
a low take-off angle or your signal will skip over your target. You’re not
hunting DX so you want your signal to go up high and bounce back to the
receiving station located a few tens to a couple hundred miles away. A low
antenna like I described will do this, and its technical name is near vertical
incidence skywave, or NVIS for short. Feed it with 100 watts and you’ll
probably be heard well enough.
A
lot more can be said about mobile and base equipment set up for emergency
operation, but we’ve covered the fundamentals here and, we hope, given you some
food for thought. Here is your homework assignment to accomplish before the
next ARES net on February 1.
1.
If
you have a base or mobile rig, for 2M only, or dual band, or multi-band, first
go find the manual for it, and read through it, especially with regard to
adjusting output power, switching between VFO and memory channels, and storing
repeater frequencies and P/L tones into memory.
2.
Make
a copy of the manual for your go-kit.
ADDENDUM:
"John W8NM commented that in the discussion on
batteries, gel cells should be included as a viable power source. They provide
a good ratio of amp-hours for the weight and are fairly inexpensive. Eldon
W8UHQ commented that they provide a safety factor as well, since there is no hydrogen
outgassing as with conventional lead-acid batteries. Bob K8LJ added that his
experience has been that they don't last as long as a good marine battery.
Steve N8WL had considered that gel cells were a subset of lead acid batteries
and had no intention of omitting discussion of gel cells, and in fact he owns
and uses one, too. They are indeed a viable source of emergency power and
should have been included in the foregoing training tip."